Window Shopping Panerai in SFO...

Post Reply
User avatar
jaw
Watchlord WIS
Posts: 5155
Joined: July 22nd 2010, 10:00pm
Contact:

Window Shopping Panerai in SFO...

Post by jaw » March 5th 2017, 6:33pm

...Or the lamentations of an anal-retentive designer/collector with the curse of acute attention to detail.

My definitive PAM hunt has gone from the 329 to 535 to landing on the what I thought was the ultimate 422. On a recent conference jaunt to San Francisco, I finally had the chance to size them all on the flesh while visiting Shreve & Co. and Tourneau with the hope of putting this multi-year decision to rest.

My perfect Panerai would be a 44mm PAM422 with their large signature crown guard, domed sapphire, no date, warm gold hands and applied numerals (cause I hate sandwich dials - yeah, I said it) - There is no such thing. For me the 422 dial composition and case profile is perfection - but it's 47 fucking millimeters.

Alas, my multi-year hunt for the perfect Panerai (for me) will likely end in compromise (as usual)...

Is the 422 really too big? That is the question - Answer: Yes! The lugs hang out far enough to save an action hero from plunging to certain death. When I'm 75, It'll look like an oversized shackle that could easily slip past the liver spots and off my emaciated wrist. So, it is with great disappointment that I'll have to pass on the 422, I really thought this was going to be it.

Image

Love the stacked look of case cushion to bezel to dome crystal on this watch, but it only exists on 47mm Pannys (372 being another). I don't know why they describe the 422 with a 1950 case. Anyone with attention to detail can see that it is really a larger 1940 case (a la Radiomir). Perhaps a true Paneristi can explain it to me.

Image

First compromise - pass on the big crown guard for a smaller 1940 case, and that means Radiomir. Next up the 657 & 627 at 45mm. Cool small second flyback feature when pulling the crown to set the time. Not to mention the P4001 micro-rotor movement and 72hr power reserve. Wish the date had a cyclops for more retro feel if they insist on a date...oh well. But wait, the dial is now textured stipes. WTF, why? This forces primary dial text to be on placards. Damn!

Image

Still, the 45mm Radiomir fit was much better than expected and made me ponder the sister 627. Identical to the 657 in functionality with the exception of the supplied strap and hobnail aka "Clous du Paris" dial pattern. Text placards remain, however. But seem more acceptable for some reason, grid pattern perhaps, anyway...

Image

Somehow the 627 dial appears blacker and could be a determining factor for me. Seems dressier (subjective).

Image

Below the 657 compared to the 527 (slightly thinner, lighter, no flyback seconds), and the 535 a sporty 42mm GMT (once lusted after), with true 1950 but thicker case. Also the crown guard/thickness proportions don't quite work at the smaller 42mm size (for me). The last two are no longer in the running.

Image

More comparisons. My PO along the 657 (again), but followed by the 572 (again) and the 512 at 42mm (too small)

Image

So as of this writing I'm closing in on the 627 for the dressier, conservitive, and semi-retired geezer look. But this choice (uh, compromise), is well in excess of what I wanted to spend - aren't they always? While I will miss the large crown guard, somehow the photo of the unprotected signed crown below makes it all ok. Now I just need to find the cash and make up my fucking mind...We shall see.

Not my pics

Image

Image

Image
Last edited by jaw on March 5th 2017, 9:21pm, edited 4 times in total.
User avatar
conjurer (Online)
ASSHAT & Master of Time
Posts: 31771
Joined: July 13th 2010, 10:00pm
Contact:

Re: Window Shopping Panerai in SFO...

Post by conjurer » March 5th 2017, 6:49pm

If an outsider ever questions our lunacy in this thing of ours, all they have to do is read this to (kinda) understand things.

That last GMT gives me an empurpled, spurting boner.
I find tv watches to be like the guys who raise their truck you need a fricken ladder to get in. It’s a attempt to look cool... that’s all.

--Hawkeye
User avatar
TemerityB
ASSHAT
Posts: 16869
Joined: June 12th 2010, 10:00pm
Facebook ID: 0
Location: New York City
Contact:

Re: Window Shopping Panerai in SFO...

Post by TemerityB » March 5th 2017, 9:06pm

Wow. What a great thread this is. Well done!
WatchGeeks will go down in watch forum history as the worst watch related site that existed. Trolls, threats, bannings, and owners and sponsors talking out of their collective asses to fleece people out of hard earned money. - Koimaster
User avatar
jaw
Watchlord WIS
Posts: 5155
Joined: July 22nd 2010, 10:00pm
Contact:

Re: Window Shopping Panerai in SFO...

Post by jaw » March 5th 2017, 10:10pm

biglove wrote:Not a fan of the brand; but, agree with Conjurer on that last GMT. Put that sucker on a comfy bracelet, make it 42mm and I would be a fan.


Yeah, fitted OEM bracelet used to be a priority, hence the 329. One of the first features I let go once the 1950/44mm case proved too big/thick. There are no OEM Radiomir bracelets to my knowledge (assuming case shape prohibits this), but I'm thinking high-end Staib after-market mesh if I ever get there.
Post Reply

Return to “Officine Panerai”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest