The history of surfing in Hawaii

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The history of surfing in Hawaii

Post by koimaster » April 15th 2022, 10:44pm

From prehistoric times, man has answered this call in a variety of ways, in canoes and coracles, in dinghies, in scows and whaleboats, but when at last the Pacific came to be explored, it was in the blue-green bays of the Islands of Hawaii that surfing - as we know it - was first observed.

There, the native Polynesians spun their wayward boards with bewildering skill as they hurtled down the faces of the breaking waves.

There, surfing was the sport of kings, and there, over a century later, the first white man learned to surf, so that to this day, Hawaii has retained its eminence as the surfing capital of the world.

It was in Hawaii that I first tried the surf in the fall of 1956.

On a subsequent trip to the Islands during 1960-1962, I was fortunate enough to spend many days on Waikiki Beach.

This book ["Surfing in Hawaii" (1962)] is the story of how I learned to surf, covering the pitfalls and difficulties, such as I found them, in the hope that my modest discoveries may ease the path of other beginners in this the greatest sport of all. ... -in-hawaii


“Your heart was warm and happy

With the lilt of Irish laughter

Every day and in every way

Now forever and ever after."
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