Glory under the Seas: The Doxa Sub 300T

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Glory under the Seas: The Doxa Sub 300T

Post by koimaster » April 26th 2018, 8:46am

The Doxa Sub 300T is the purest expression of horological form following function that exists. It is the very epitome of purpose built design.

Urs Eschle, Operations Manager for Doxa from 1956 to 1968, wasn't concerned about traditional aesthetics when he started designing the Sub 300T in 1964. All he wanted was to build a watch that had just one purpose, to dive.

There had been great diving watches before, the Rolex Submariner (1953) and Omega Seamaster 300 (1957) for example, but there had yet to have been a watch that eschewed traditional design to focus solely on delivering an uncompromising experience. Less of a piece of art, more of a technical instrument. Eschle brought together a team of watchmakers, engineers and divers (Including Claude Wesly, the first man in the world to live thirty three days underwater) to start designing and testing a new species of watch.

With no coastline for hundreds of miles Eschle and his team traveled forty miles south of their workshop in Le Locle to Lake Neuchatel, then polluted and murky, to test the visibility of different colored dials underwater. The story goes that the team tested turquoise, orange, yellow, red and black dials at a depth of 30 meters with orange being the most visible. I've seen criticism online of the efficacy of testing and the result; even Jason Heaton said that the orange dial turns a dull gray below twenty feet with the black dial 'Sharkhunter' being far more visible. However It is the orange 'Professional' dial that has remained the most iconic of the Sub 300Ts ... a-sub-300t


“Your heart was warm and happy

With the lilt of Irish laughter

Every day and in every way

Now forever and ever after."
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