In-House movements

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In-House movements

Post by koimaster » July 12th 2019, 9:28am

Responses to a question asked some time ago at Escapement.

Swatch owns ETA, so most of their watches uses ETA movement. Swatch also supplies LVMH with movements (that includes Tag, Hublot, Zenith). Swatch also owns Lemania, which means their top tier watches (like Breguet) don't officially use in-house movements. So on paper, the watch brands under swatch uses swatch movements. This is also the reason why modern omegas and tags are not that sought after as they were back in the days when they were independent and made their own movements (that's a personal comment from my experience).

IWC uses ETA for their lower tier watches. However, they modify the movements by replacing important parts made with better material. They also have to modify the vph of the movement to extend the reserve to 7 days instead of the normal 2 days. However, for their top tier watches they do use in-house movement.

Cartier makes their own movement. Patek makes their own movement (duh lol). JLC makes their own movement. AP makes their own movement. Zenith makes their own movement (unlike tag and hublot).

Hublot uses ETA (I really hate Hublot by the way, overpriced gigantic monstrosities with little emphasis on class the other big brands have). Breitling uses modified ETA movements. Sinn uses ETA movements. Stowa uses ETA movements. The list goes on and on. Chanel doesn't make their own movements. They either use quartz or ETA (I believe) in their J12 movements.

It is actually a lot easier to list which companies do not use ETA movements. It is difficult to find a top company which uses in-house movements exclusively throughout its history. JLC supplied movements to PP, AP, VC, cartier in its history. Zenith once used ETA movements. ETA also acquires a lot of movement makers which sort of makes them "ETA". Among the swiss and german watches, pretty much everyone uses either ETA or Frederic Piguet or Lemania or Nouvelle Lemania, all owned by Swatch.

The definition of in-house movement is actually pretty blurry. Most companies don't actually build all parts under the same figurative roof, but they heavily rely upon a web of suppliers.

A more accurate term would be "proprietary" movement, which implies that the company has an exclusivity on the design, and that they have control over who manufactures the components, and how.

Based on that definition, here is my list of watch companies [from the European continent] that exclusively use proprietary movements:

A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Dornblüth & Söhne, François-Paul Journe, Girard-Perregaux, Glashütte S/A, Greubel-Forsey, Jaeger leCoultre, Kari Voutilainen, Lange & Heyne, McGonigle, Moritz Grossmann, Nomos Glashütte, Parmigiani Fleurier, Patek Philippe, Philippe Dufour, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, Urban Jurgensen, Vacheron Constantin, Zeitwinkel, Zenith.

And here are the companies that mix amongst their collections, proprietary modules or movements and stock movements:

Alpina, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Breguet, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chopard, Christopher Ward, Chronoswiss, Damasko, Frank Muller, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton, Hermes, Hublot, IWC, Jacquet-Droz, Longines, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Omega, Oris, Pequignet, Perrelet, Speake-Marin, Stowa, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor.


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Re: In-House movements

Post by Hawk » July 12th 2019, 10:33am

Isn't Rolex's parachrom hairspring a qualifier for "in house including all parts"?

And as Conjurer noted in the Zenith thread the list includes only non-Japanese products. Then again what's left of my mind is still reeling a bit from the Zenith thread.
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